Plans for the coroplast and fan fold foam are below. Build video hopefully later today.
Enjoy your building.
The airframe cut from fan fold or other light stiff material. Click for larger version.
The vertical stab template, make 2. Click to get larger image.
The coroplast deck where all all the electronics are mounted. Click on for larger version.
This photo shows the alignment of components on the coroplast deck. Note the taping down of the wiring to the servo motors. Further, the speed controller is cable tied to the deck in a front to back orientation. This keeps the speed controller stable during rough nose landings. The receiver is mounted with the thinner part of the receiver towards the front of the deck to allow the cable tie to hold the receiver in during rough landings.
Brooklyn Aerodrome 
October 4, 2010 at 1:06 am |
[…] ir direto ao ponto, abaixo seguem os links: – Peças necessárias: Hobby King – Medidas do modelo: Esquema Towel 1.2 – Montagem do Deck: Vídeos do […]
October 6, 2010 at 5:49 am |
My Portuguese is pretty bad (I think it is Portugese). I can help more if you ask in English.
Breck
October 6, 2010 at 1:15 am |
Add me please…
October 6, 2010 at 5:41 am |
Add you to what? There is a google group. This is not the place, go to the google groups link off of the home page.
http://groups.google.com/group/brooklyn-aerodrome
Breck
October 6, 2010 at 1:52 pm |
Hey,
What kind ov motor is this?Is it that motor which rotates and is normally present in the toy cars to rotate the wheels.Secondly,how much voltage does this motor require?Would the 12volt battery would be enough to spin it.
Looking forward for your co-operation and quick reply too
October 6, 2010 at 3:47 pm |
There is a parts list in the instructions. We use a brushless outrunner that generates around 16 oz of thrust
with a 10 4 prop.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=9042
If find something else to use then let us know.
Breck
October 30, 2010 at 9:12 pm |
Im having trouble finding the 1/4 foam for the airframe and vertical stabilizers. will 1/2 in styrofoam serve as a decent replacement?
November 1, 2010 at 2:50 pm |
I have made them out of pink fan fold that is around 1/2″ thick, they fly ok. You will have to experiment. Towels have been
made out of cardboard, coroplast, foam core mounting board. Best though is the 1/4″ fan fold.
Breck
September 19, 2011 at 5:18 pm |
Hi, i just saw yr both at the NY makers fair. totally awesome!!! i am going to embark on building one. i was wondering if you have ever tried converting a cheap harbor fright RC plane kit to fit one of you truly awesome designs. some of them sell very cheap complete with a controller and arrive very quickly. i would love to talk more about this. Cheers and keep up the good work!!!
Thanks
September 19, 2011 at 6:02 pm |
I found this plane
http://www.harborfreight.com/easy-to-fly-wild-hawk-rc-airplane-94774.html
The transmitter does not look like it has elevon mixing so you would need an on board mixer. The motor looks
pretty small as well. perhaps a 24″ wing span plane?
B
September 28, 2011 at 7:51 pm |
I think i jumped the gun. after further research on your site it seems very obvious to me to use your parts list from hobby king. thanks
September 28, 2011 at 9:30 pm |
If money is a concern then the parts list is what you want. Just be careful about the HKT6a v2 radio is a hassle to program.
October 10, 2011 at 3:59 am |
would this work if it was made to look like the paper aeroplanes people make as kids?
October 11, 2011 at 5:11 pm |
Sounds like a fun project. Just fold the fan fold to be the shape you want. Would probably fly pretty well.
Brck
May 27, 2012 at 1:50 am |
My son and I have built one! The build is much easier than the flying. Any tips for flying? One we repair all the damage we would really like to get some better flying time.
May 27, 2012 at 11:25 pm |
Great to see that you have it built. Are you using the Splinter method of fight training? Launch at about 50% throttle and just keep the
wingtips and nose level and go about 50 feet, cut throttle and land. Do that until you have control. I’ll shoot an instructional video
tomorrow hopefully.
Breck
June 23, 2012 at 7:22 pm |
There is a small discrepancy between these plans and the plans in the magazine article, namely the “window” in the airframe is 12″ from the nose in this diagram, but 11″ in the magazine.
Could you comment on this? Does one or the other provide some slight benefit or difficulty?
June 25, 2012 at 5:41 pm |
I change the geometry of the Towel to reflect enhancements. In this case the batteries are a little lighter than they used to be so I moved the motor forward so the battery doesn’t have to be so forward.
Breck
August 16, 2012 at 12:27 pm |
As the materials trickle in, I’m starting to look at the instructions. The first thing that struck me as odd is the deck. The template shows a “bridge” across the middle of the opening but I can’t see how the prop would spin with that bridge in place. The photos I’ve seen don’t seem to show this bridge so I’m assuming that the diagram is incorrect?
Jim
August 16, 2012 at 1:43 pm |
The bridge is material for a the old approach to the motor mount. We used to make it from the coroplast directly. The older build video covers that method. Only issue with the approach is that the motor gets hot and the plastic can get soft or even melt.
Old method build instructions:
New version based on Make Mag volume 30 article
Breck
August 16, 2012 at 2:02 pm
Latest plans are at:
http://makeprojects.com/Wiki/30#Section_Template_Images
There is no motor mount flange.
Breck
August 17, 2012 at 12:51 pm
Got it. That makes sense.
BTW, I got this motor mount and will be trying it out when we do the build this weekend:
http://www.rcdude.com/servlet/the-1179/L-dsh-Style-Motor-Mount/Detail
It looks promising…
October 8, 2012 at 12:45 pm |
i bought the kit at the maker fair in new york on sunday (i think) i made it and it flyed grate but i was doing very fast 3d stunts and i noticed the the foam air frame was flexing from the force in rolls, loops, and quick exits from inverted flying and im wondering, besides the safty isue whats wrong with a corogated plastic air frame?
October 8, 2012 at 6:31 pm |
Congrats on getting in the air. The biggest problem is corpolast being heavy. It also may need a spar to keep it from flexing too much which can then make the elevons unable to move because the flex curves the elevon hinge line making it mechanically impossible to move. If you want to stiffen the airframe cover it in packing tape and it will firm right up. Good luck Breck
October 8, 2012 at 9:09 pm
Where could I get some more of that foam so I can do some experiments with rudder (oh and NOT in bulk)
October 9, 2012 at 1:11 pm
You may be able to get away with coroplast or foam core for stabilizers. Heavy but if you can keep the CG the same by moving the battery forward you should be fine. I do send out foam by mail as well but it is expensive with shipping or you can swing by the studio in williamsburg brooklyn.
October 9, 2012 at 4:51 pm |
Are there any hard ware stores that sell foam that thin
October 9, 2012 at 6:01 pm |
Depends on where you live. People have reported success with the 3/8th inch dow (blue) and owen’s corning (pink) and it might even be better. Sometimes they will sell just a few sheets. Breck
October 9, 2012 at 8:42 pm
Ok but what I’m wondering is where do you get it from
October 9, 2012 at 10:28 pm
Home Depot, Lowes, most any building supply but it is hard to find. You have the material name off of the parts list blog post off the blog. BB
December 10, 2012 at 3:55 pm |
can it be made completely out of card?
December 10, 2012 at 10:39 pm |
Yikes! What is card exactly?
December 10, 2012 at 4:04 pm |
(corrugated)
December 10, 2012 at 10:41 pm |
We have had some success with cardboard (corrugated paper). It makes the plane tail heavy and a bigger motor is generally required. A research project is needed in this direction–anyone want to volunteer and report? Breck